RCT

Bakuchiol versus retinol for facial photoageing

Bakuchiol 0.5% cream improved wrinkles and pigmentation over 12 weeks with no measurable difference from retinol 0.5% — but bakuchiol was applied twice daily and retinol once daily, and 44 people is too few to prove two treatments are equal.

Forty-four adults were randomly assigned to use either bakuchiol 0.5% cream twice a day or retinol 0.5% cream once a day for 12 weeks. Photographs were analysed automatically, and a dermatologist who did not know which cream anyone had used graded pigmentation and redness. Both groups improved significantly in wrinkle area and pigmentation, and the difference between the two groups was not statistically significant. People using retinol reported more skin scaling and stinging. This is the only head-to-head comparison of bakuchiol and retinol that exists. Two things limit what it can tell you. The groups were small, so the study was never designed to demonstrate that the two treatments are equally effective — only to look for a difference, and none was found. And the creams were used at different frequencies, which makes a like-for-like comparison harder.

Dhaliwal S, Rybak I, Ellis SR, et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. Br J Dermatol. 2019;180(2):289-296.