Photoaging is a collection of changes rather than one, and they build so slowly that most people only notice by comparison. The inner upper arm, which sees almost no sun, is the honest control.
The classic photoaging picture — deep wrinkles, thin crepey skin, broken vessels — is what happens in fair skin. Brown and Black skin has more natural protection, so wrinkling comes later and is less severe, but the damage is still there and it shows up differently. It appears mainly as uneven pigment: patchy darkening, mottled tone, and enlarged pores and texture change. Visible light, not just UV, drives that pigment, and ordinary clear sunscreens do not block visible light — which is the specific reason tinted sunscreens containing iron oxides are recommended for deeper skin. Skin cancer is less common in brown and Black skin but is diagnosed later and does worse, so a rough patch or a sore that does not heal is not something to skip because of skin tone.
Several other things cause spots and texture change. See Lookalikes near the bottom of this page.
Ultraviolet light comes in two kinds that matter here. UVB is the shorter one that burns the skin. UVA is longer, penetrates deeper, and is the main driver of photoaging — and it is present all day, all year, and passes straight through window glass. That is why sun damage accumulates in people who rarely burn and rarely sunbathe.
Deeper in the skin sits collagen, the protein scaffold that keeps skin firm, and elastin, which gives it recoil. UV switches on enzymes that break collagen down, and it slows the making of new collagen at the same time. Elastin fibres become clumped and disorganised instead of springy. UV also stimulates pigment cells unevenly, which produces the patchy brown spots, and weakens the walls of small blood vessels, which is where the fine red threads come from. On top of all that, UV damages DNA in skin cells directly — most of it is repaired, and the errors that are not are what eventually become actinic keratoses and skin cancers.
Most of this is dose. It is the sum of every ordinary day outdoors, not just holidays and sunburns. Roughly speaking, the majority of visible facial ageing is attributed to sun rather than to the passing of years, which is both the sobering part and the hopeful one — because the dose you get from here on is something you control.
Two things do most of the work here, and both are available without a prescription: daily sun protection and a retinoid. Everything else is a supporting act.
Much of this can be improved at home with sunscreen and a retinoid. Book a visit if:
What the visit gets you: rough spots identified and treated before they progress, prescription tretinoin or tazarotene, field treatments that clear a whole sun-damaged area rather than one spot at a time, and a realistic conversation about which in-office treatments suit your skin.
Prescription options are where the strongest evidence sits, both for improving damaged skin and for clearing the rough precancerous spots that come with it.
In-office treatments do things creams cannot — removing pigment, closing broken vessels and rebuilding collagen. They need several sessions, and the right choice depends heavily on your skin tone.
Dryness, flaking and some redness. Texture improves before anything else. Photograph now, because this is your baseline.
Skin looks smoother and pigment starts to even out. This is when most people first notice a change rather than feel one.
Where the real result sits. Fine lines soften and firmness improves as new collagen builds. This is the point at which a retinoid is fairly judged, not at week eight.
Lasers and peels give a visible surface result in a few weeks, and their collagen effect keeps developing for three to six months afterwards. Expect several sessions rather than one.
Sun protection is permanent, not a course. Stop it and damage resumes accumulating, and any pigment you cleared comes back. What you can realistically expect is meaningfully better skin, not the skin on your inner arm.
The cosmetic changes are harmless. What sun damage brings with it is not, and it is worth being plain about.
Sun damage is a mix of changes, and a few of the things within it are treated very differently.