Product

AmLactin Intensive Healing 15%

15% ammonium lactate in a ceramide base — the strongest and best-formulated product AmLactin makes.
At a Glance
Recommended

15% ammonium lactate exfoliates and hydrates at the same time. It is an alpha hydroxy acid, so it loosens dead skin cells, and it also pulls water into the skin.

An acid stresses the skin barrier. This formula answers that by adding three ceramides, phytosphingosine and cholesterol — the actual lipid classes that make up your barrier. That is not a marketing flourish; it is the correct response to what the acid does.

For keratosis pilaris — the rough bumps on arms and thighs — acids like this are the mainstay of treatment. They manage it well, but the bumps return when you stop, because nothing available cures it.

Key facts

Key activeAmmonium lactate 15%
TextureLotion or cream
Best forVery dry, rough, scaly skin; stubborn keratosis pilaris
Approximate price$14–$20
FragranceFragrance free

How it works

This is the one to buy if you are buying AmLactin. It is their strongest acid and their best base — and those two things belong together.

15% ammonium lactate exfoliates and hydrates at once.

And the base has three ceramides, phytosphingosine and cholesterol — the actual lipid classes that make up your skin barrier. That matters more than it sounds: an acid damages the barrier, so pairing it with barrier lipids is not a marketing flourish, it is the correct response. AmLactin's discontinued Ultra Smoothing had none of them.

Paraben-free, and about 21 ingredients.

Everyday habits

How to use it
  • When: Once a day on rough, dry body skin. Nighttime works well.How much: A thin layer over the area. How: Smooth onto clean, dry skin. It comes as both a lotion and a cream — check which one you are buying. Watch out: 15% is strong and can sting, especially on cracked skin. Do not use it on your face. AHAs make skin burn more easily, so use sunscreen during the day and for about a week after you stop.
Who should be careful+

15% is a strong acid to put on your whole body. Expect stinging, particularly at first, and particularly anywhere skin is cracked.

Do not use it on your face. This is a body strength.

It makes you burn more easily — and the label says for longer than you think. The alpha hydroxy acid warning tells you to use sunscreen and protective clothing while using it "and for a week afterwards." Almost nobody reads that far.

Same regulatory point as the 12%: ammonium lactate at this kind of strength is a prescription drug when it is called Lac-Hydrin. This is sold as a cosmetic, with no FDA review of whether it works.

It comes as both a Lotion and a Cream, which are different products with the same name. Check which you are buying.

Keratosis pilaris comes back when you stop.

Questions people ask+
What is this best for?Very dry, rough, scaly skin and stubborn keratosis pilaris.
Can I use it on my face?No. 15% is a body strength and too strong for facial skin.
Lotion or cream — which do I get?Both exist under the same name. Pick by preference and check the label.
Does it cure keratosis pilaris?No. It manages it well, but the bumps return when you stop.
Do I need sunscreen?Yes. AHAs make skin burn more easily, during use and for about a week after.
Full ingredient list+

Water (Aqua), Ammonium Lactate, Glycerin, Sodium Lactate, Potassium Lactate, Mineral Oil, Petrolatum, Steareth-21, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Stearyl Alcohol, Steareth-2, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Potassium Sorbate

References+

1. Ammonium Lactate Lotion, 12% - DailyMed drug label (https://dailymed.nlm.nih.gov/dailymed/drugInfo.cfm?setid=8bb09bb3-5bbc-489d-96c1-ae97cb58381e) — FDA drug label for 12% ammonium lactate (neutralized lactic acid) confirms it is an acidic preparation (lotion pH 4.5-5.5) indicated for dry, scaly skin (xerosis), and explicitly warns that stinging or burning may occur on application, especially to abraded or shaved skin. 2. Clinical evaluation of 40% urea and 12% ammonium lactate in the treatment of xerosis (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/11978141/) — Randomized double-blind clinical trial showing 12% ammonium lactate improves xerosis measures (skin dryness, roughness, scaling and desquamation), supporting that ammonium lactate exfoliates and hydrates dry skin. 3. The skin barrier: An extraordinary interface with an exceptional lipid organization (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37666282/) — Peer-reviewed review (Prog Lipid Res, 2023) stating the main lipid classes of the stratum corneum barrier are ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids, supporting the claim that ceramides and cholesterol are the actual lipid classes making up the skin barrier.