The active here is potassium azeloyl diglycinate. It is a derivative, which means it is a different molecule that is related to azelaic acid. It is not the same ingredient.
This matters because the strong evidence for azelaic acid — for redness, breakouts and uneven tone — was built on azelaic acid itself, usually at higher strengths. That evidence does not automatically transfer to a derivative.
The derivative is water-soluble and gentle, so some people who cannot tolerate real azelaic acid may still find it useful. Just know what you are buying.
| Key active | Potassium azeloyl diglycinate (a derivative — not azelaic acid) |
| Texture | Lightweight water-based serum |
| Best for | Sensitive skin that cannot tolerate real azelaic acid |
| Approximate price | $18–$20 |
| Fragrance | Fragrance free |
It is cosmetically far nicer than real azelaic acid, and that is not a trivial advantage. No grit, no pilling, no white cast, no sting — the texture problems that make The Ordinary's version so unpleasant simply do not exist here.
Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is water-soluble and gentle, which is what makes that possible.
Niacinamide is also in the formula, and niacinamide has genuinely good independent evidence for barrier support, oil control and pigmentation.
If real azelaic acid has defeated you, this is a reasonable thing to try — as long as you know what it is.
There is no azelaic acid in this product.
The active is potassium azeloyl diglycinate — a derivative. It is a different molecule, and you cannot transfer azelaic acid's evidence to it. That Cochrane review grading azelaic acid as high-quality evidence for rosacea? It does not apply here.
The evidence for the derivative itself is thin. The few studies that exist tested it combined with other actives, so its independent effect cannot be separated out.
Naturium has renamed the product — it used to be "Azelaic Topical Acid 10%," and it is now "Azelaic Acid Derivative Complex 10%." That change is an admission, and it is to their credit that they made it. But a great many people bought this thinking they were buying azelaic acid.
The "10%" refers to the derivative, not to azelaic acid.
$20 for a derivative — when $12 buys the real thing.
Water, Propanediol, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Niacinamide, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenylpropanol, Phenoxyethanol, Citric Acid, Potassium Chloride, Glycerin, Chlorphenesin, Tocopherol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
1. Synergy of Tetracyclines and Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (Azeloglycine) in Hydrogels: Evaluation of Stability, Antimicrobial Activity, and Physicochemical Properties (https://www.mdpi.com/1422-0067/26/11/5239) — Directly states that azeloglycine (potassium azeloyl diglycinate) is a derivative of azelaic acid that dissolves much better in water and has no irritating effects, supporting the claim that PAD is a water-soluble, gentle azelaic acid derivative rather than azelaic acid itself. 2. Treatment of symptoms of erythemato-telangiectatic rosacea with topical potassium azeloyl diglycinate and hydroxypropyl chitosan: Results of a sponsor-free, multicenter, open study (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24831156/) — In patients previously treated with topical azelaic acid, a 5% potassium azeloyl diglycinate cream reduced stinging and burning by 56% with no side effects, supporting the claim that PAD is gentle and non-stinging and a reasonable option when real azelaic acid was poorly tolerated. 3. The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16766489/) — Randomized placebo-controlled trials showing topical 2% niacinamide significantly lowered sebum excretion/casual sebum levels, supporting the claim that niacinamide has independent evidence for oil control. 4. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12100180/) — Randomized controlled study demonstrating 2-5% niacinamide significantly reduced facial hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanosome transfer, supporting the claim that niacinamide has good evidence for pigmentation. 5. Moisturizing at a molecular level - The basis of Corneocare (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/36453857/) — Peer-reviewed review of stratum corneum biology identifying niacinamide among treatments that improve skin moisturization and barrier function, supporting the claim that niacinamide has evidence for barrier support.