Product

Ole Henriksen Truth Serum Collagen Booster

A pleasant, glowy vitamin C serum built on mild derivatives, with fragrance. More of a cosmetic than a corrective.
At a Glance
Mixed

The actives here are sodium ascorbyl phosphate and calcium ascorbate — among the milder, less-researched vitamin C derivatives. They are stable and will not sting or oxidize, but they must convert to active vitamin C in the skin, and the evidence that they do so usefully is thin. Treat this as a glow product, not a corrective for stubborn pigmentation.

Neither concentration is disclosed, so you cannot verify what you are getting. That makes it hard to compare on results with a serum that states its dose.

It also contains fragrance, plus limonene, linalool and citral — recognized fragrance allergens. For reactive skin, that is a real drawback in a serum otherwise marketed on skin health.

Key facts

Key activeSodium ascorbyl phosphate + calcium ascorbate (percentages not disclosed)
TextureLightweight gel
Best forEveryday glow; not for treating stubborn pigmentation
Approximate price$52–$56

How it works

It feels lovely and it layers well. That is the honest core of the product, and it is why it has lasted.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is a mild, stable derivative that will not sting or oxidize. Combined with calcium ascorbate, aloe, green tea and rosehip, this is an easy-to-wear, hydrating, softly brightening serum.

If what you want is a daily serum that makes your skin look fresh and does not cause problems, it does that.

Everyday habits

How to use it
  • When: morning or night.How much: a few drops on clean skin. Steps: apply before moisturizer and let it absorb. Sunscreen: vitamin C is not sun protection — follow with SPF in the day. If it pills: use less and wait before layering.
Who should be careful+

Neither concentration is disclosed. You cannot verify what you are getting.

SAP and calcium ascorbate are among the milder, less-researched derivatives. This is not a potency product, and it should not be compared to an L-ascorbic acid serum on results.

It contains fragrance, plus limonene, linalool and citral — recognized fragrance allergens. For a $56 serum marketed on skin health, that is a real drawback for anyone reactive.

$56 for undisclosed amounts of weak derivatives is a hard value case. Paula's Choice C15 costs less and contains 15% of the real thing.

Questions people ask+
Is this strong vitamin C?No. It uses mild derivatives, not L-ascorbic acid.
How much vitamin C is in it?The concentrations are not disclosed.
Will it fade stubborn dark spots?Unlikely. It is more of an everyday glow serum.
Is it fragrance-free?No. It contains fragrance and several fragrance allergens.
Why does it cost so much?Largely the brand and experience; the actives are mild and undisclosed.
Full ingredient list+

Water/Aqua/Eau, Glycerin, Oleth-20, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Parfum/Fragrance, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Benzophenone-4, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aroma/Flavor, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Disodium Phosphate, Polysorbate 60, Yellow 6 (CI 15985), Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Thioctic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Sodium Phosphate, Sorbitol, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Seed Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Alcohol, Ascorbic Acid, Calcium Carbonate, Calcium Threonate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Euphrasia Officinalis Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Benzyl Benzoate, Citral, Limonene, Linalool

References+

1. The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health (https://www.mdpi.com/2072-6643/9/8/866) — Peer-reviewed review documenting vitamin C's roles in collagen synthesis and antioxidant photoprotection, and comparing topical vitamin C derivatives including ascorbyl phosphate esters for stability and skin penetration. 2. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | C6H6Na3O9P | CID 10990876 - PubChem (https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Sodium-ascorbyl-phosphate) — NIH/NLM compound record confirming sodium ascorbyl phosphate is a phosphate-ester (phosphorylated) derivative of ascorbic acid, the chemical basis for its use as a stable vitamin C form, backing the claim that SAP is a stable derivative. 3. Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20367669/) — Randomized controlled trial showing topical 5% sodium ascorbyl phosphate is efficacious with a tolerability/safety profile similar to vehicle, supporting the claim that SAP is a mild, well-tolerated (non-stinging) vitamin C derivative. 4. Topical vitamin C | DermNet (https://dermnetnz.org/topics/topical-vitamin-c) — Reputable clinical dermatology reference stating that L-ascorbic acid is highly unstable when exposed to oxygen and describing vitamin C's antioxidant UV protection and collagen roles, contextualizing why stable derivatives like SAP are used and that SAP will not oxidize like free ascorbic acid.